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Monthly News letters
Topic Started: May 25 2011, 07:09 PM (765 Views)
scooby
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Here i will post the monthly news letters
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scooby
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monthly news letter for May 2011

Parrotlet newsletter for May


Hi this is the news letter for May 2011

I would like to welcome new member for the month May

Peppermint
gittje
sherrybarbie
bbomjmc
hadukenzero
geneieo4
mis stroppy
biomass
A big welcome to you all

Member of the month is: (May)

Bakewell
Congratulation

The competition winners for the Christmas competition was

Jan with Mint and Sky
Congratulation

The spring and summer competition is now open until June for all bird pictures


Member’s information

Bakewells is travelling to Holland to buy rarer species of parrotlets

I have always loved the green rumped and spectacled parrotlets. And
after discovering my 'pair' sold to me was a spectacled cock and a
green rumped cock I took on the mission to find hens (2008) This took
a very long time of searching! We finally obtained a spectacled hen
from Essex and literally my husband came home a few days
later with a green rumped hen from a pet shop in Devon! Since pairing
off I was on the search for more!
There was recently an article in the parrot society all about the
decline of parrotlets such as the spectacled parrotlet (forpus
conspicillatus), green rumped parrotlet (forpus passerinus) and the
yellow faced parrotlet (forpus xanthops) written by Jerry Fisher.
After many talks with Jerry we discovered how few breeders/keepers
there were of the green rumped parrotlets. So this made me more
determine to find more pairs!! After coming across an advert in
February for forpus passerinus delicious ( or delicates) I made the
call and I arranged to meet with him! Sadly one of the cocks
turned out to be a hybrid, apparently a celestial spectacled cross!!
Again I called Jerry, and after much talking we decided to keep the
forpus passerinus separate from their sub species. (A lot of breeders
have managed to do this on the continent so out of respect and keeping
birds as pure from their sub species as we can ) I went ahead and made
it my mission to get hold of more un related pairs! Eventually I came
across an advert on a Dutch website and got in touch with Mrs. Van Elk.
She has a few pairs of the delicious sub species and can get me 5
completely unrelated birds. This will take me up to 5 completely un
related pairs. Which I'm personally really proud of! Her birds are
stunning, show quality birds. On the continent again they are really
into 'show' stock and she informs me she has the best pairs. So I'm
really looking forward to meeting them. So soon I will be off to get
my new babies!! And I'm very very excited.
I aim to obtain another pair in September for the forpus international
show in Belgium, I've sent an email to the organisers and they have
forwarded me to another breeder and also their website will be updated
early next week of people taking birds to the show. He is 100% sure
there will be some one sale but I just want to make arrangements
before I go out there.
By the end of 2013 I would like to have between 10-15 pairs. Obviously
I would of needed to move by then! As I'm quickly running out of space!!
But my aim in all this is to re establish the green rump sub species
as others have focused on the green rumped main species. An not have
them interbreeding. When I can make up unrelated pairs with my young I
will only sell them onto serious parrotlet breeders who have parrotlet
experience and WILL NOT INTERBREED with other species. I will be more
than happy to help them find what they are after. For example if they
loose their hen I would sell my next unrelated hen to them i breed or
even get from the continent ( hoping to go out at least once a year)
Again if they breed their pair I could sell young from one of the
other pairs to pair up with their young. But I would like everyone who
buys from me to keep me updated and keep records of breeding. I cannot
stress how important that next step would be! If we get there!


Bird information

Bakewells breeding season of 2011 so far.
In my big aviary my breeding season has been quiet good so far. The cockatiels are currently on 2 chicks (both lutino like their daddy) due to fledge in the next week. Bourke’s also have 2 chicks, their feathers are just coming up now, I thought we may have one rubbing but I think they will both be Rosas like their parents. The Zebra finches are worse than rabbits! But very creative with their nest building. We have one nest built behind the Bourke’s nest box, and what a creation that is! The pair (Normal and white) who had babies are now on more babies! The pair (Pied and Chestnut flamked white) have just had the fourth baby fledge (this too is their second round) and my other pair (normal and fawn) are nesting underneath the nest box the pied and CFW are using. They too have built a crazy nest!!! Bengaleses are all over the place! (Were not actually sure what sexes of everyone!) But we have 2 in one finch box on 3 eggs, and one pair have nested on top of a log in the shed! They have built a great nest too! They had 9 eggs, but looked today and I saw baby/babies... I wasn’t quiet sure if it was 1 or 2, there sooo tiny!!! but there was 6 eggs. (Not sure what happened to the one!)
We had no successful with the plum heads; this was their first season and out of 5 eggs only one fertile. They may go down again but they are early breeders, so I doubt they will.
The Crimson Bellied Conures are on 5 eggs, 3 eggs are whiter than the other 2 so think they are empty. They are due to start hatching now! But I think they don't start sitting on them until the last egg is laid, so I have about another week with them. I'm really hoping they hatch. The cock is a 2010 bird so not 100% sure they will all actually be fertile! Ill be taking the nest box down for a good 5-6 months after this as the hens belly has lost all the red where she has been using feathers to incubate the eggs (and she didn’t have much feathers on her chest before she laid in the first place, I brought her practically belly bald and she was feathering up!!)
We have 2 pairs of mountains on eggs, I don't like to check once they have laid as they could damage the eggs so I'm leaving them too it this time! The one pair has laid before so I am 100% happy they will be successful. The other pair again it is there first time both early 2010 birds.
And I’m happy to announce my one pair of green rumped (delicious/delicates) are on eggs!!! But she is now sitting very tight! And the cock sits outside! I cannot explain how happy I am just to get eggs!! I think I will actually cry if they hatch! Hopefully I will breed one of the other pairs! Or will be another trip to Holland or Belgium for some young o pair up with them!
And my spectacled parrotlets are on eggs, due to hatch end of the month. These too I have my fingers crossed as they have laid about 3 times and only produced one baby.
I don’t Close ring my birds unless they need DNA sexing. So only my plumheads, CBC and Meyers (if they breed that is!)
I don't like to stress the babies and mother out so I leave them until they have almost fledged. I guess I'm nervous because of what happened with Pancake. I had to keep ringing pancake because I thought it kept slipping off, until the last time i put it on was really tight... nest day off again so I kept it off. Then I noticed he had splayed legs, and I believe the parents were removing the ring. And where it was tight the last time I put it on, the parents must of hurt him removing it. A lot of people told me to put him to sleep!!! He had a make up sponge attached to him (changed everyday) he most probably hated me but now he can walk.... or hobble! But it doesn’t affect his everyday life :)
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Scooby’s breeding season so far

I have quite a few batches of babies from my breeding pair Sky and Scooby all have gone to good homes; I still see Pics of Chika and Jasper occasionally.
Sadly earlier this year I lost my breeding hen sky she had a seizure and died in my hand I was really upset she was my favorite parrotlet.
So now I have paired Smurf up with Scooby and they have just raised two lovely green girls who I have called April and Apple.
Scooby doo and sugar have laid several batches of eggs but keep destroying them so I am going to leave them for this season.
The mountains will be ready to breed in June July but I am waiting until the back end of the year to try and breed them.
Tico and Aby which I purchased as a breeding pair are infact two males, I am 99% sure Aby is actually a Albert but because he or she is a albino I can’t be certain unless I have a DNA test done but I think she is a boy.


Forum information

We have had a few change to the forum just recently we have added some new forum sections and sub section this includes rarer Parrotlets,Parakeets and Conure and Lovebird sections

Useful information

International Parrotlet Society's Recommended Minimum Standards for Care of Parrotlets

• Feed your parrotlet a healthy, varied diet on a daily basis including pellets, vegetables, beans, grains, fruits, seeds and nuts.
• Clean water should always be available. Change water at least once daily.
• Learn what foods should be avoided such as salt, sugar, chocolate, avocados and alcohol.
• Secure the services of a veterinarian certified in or experienced with avian clients.
• A well-bird examination and annual check ups are highly recommended.
• Quarantine any new bird(s) coming into your home for at least 45 days if another bird(s) is already present.
• Have nails, beaks and flight feathers trimmed when needed.
• Keep your parrotlet away from smoke, toxic plants and fumes.
• Give your parrotlet exercise opportunities and time out of its cage daily.
• Never leave parrotlets unsupervised with children or other pets.
• Never take parrotlets outside unless they are in a cage. Even a parrotlet with clipped wings can still fly.
• When traveling with your bird in a car, always make sure the seatbelt is securely fastened around the cage.
• Provide a cage large enough to contain many toys and perches to allow your parrotlet ample room to exercise. A recommended MINIMUM is 18" wide x 18" deep x 24" high. Maximum bar spacing is 1/2"
• Provide enrichment items and rotate them on a regular basis to alleviate boredom. Also, check them often to make sure they are not damaged and are safe.
• Clean cage, perches and toys regularly and change cage papers daily. Food and water dishes should also be cleaned daily.



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bakewell
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Great work Jackie!
Will you pair up albert and tico with other hens?
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Jan
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Very good news letter Jackie
Congratuations Bakewell.....
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june monthly news letter

Parrotlet newsletter for June


Hi this is the news letter for June 2011

I would like to welcome new member for the month
Vo33
Mrs Dolittle
LULU1821
CK5D81
Chris-huyton@btinternet.Com
Kep59
Ownerlet
Newbird
animalover
bubblenutta
BirdNovice

A big welcome to you all

Member of the month (June)
Member of the months for June is Scooby
Congratulation to Scooby

We are not doing member of the month anymore after June it will be a member of the month every 3 months

Competitions

The spring and summer competition is now open until the end July for all bird pictures

Member’s information

Jan had a lovely holiday in the Maldives some very nice pictures and videos on the forum

Bakewell made her 1000th post this month and she has only been a member for 10 months congratulation bakewell and thankyou for all your postings

Bakewells visit to the Netherlands was a great success she came with what she wanted

Her account of the visit
On Saturday 28th May 2011 we leave south Wales for Huissen the Netherlands. I’m very excited, as most of you will know I have literally been searching high and low for more Forpus Passerinus Deliciosus (Green Rumped Parrotlets sub species the 'delicate'). We arrive about 7pm at our destination (after getting hopelessly lost in Antwerp!!!!).
Leidy Van Elk is very warm and welcoming. We enter her huge bird room, its pristine, smells pleasant and overwhelming. I really appreciated the fact it didn’t smell of stale cigarettes! As sadly in the past I have encountered. She shows me her parrotlets starting with her collection on Forpus Coelesti (Celestial Parrotlet) they are beautiful birds, nice and stocky all looked really healthy. Mostly I’m impressed with the size of these! She shows me a ‘new’ mutation she has bred, he has a green body and a yellow face (almost like a yellow faced) but has red eyes, and the yellow is so bright and stunning. She had a range of colour mutations, blues, fallows, lutinos and yellows. I, then shown young, and again amazed with how unfazed the birds are and the design of the nest box. Long with two cambers.
I am shown all the breeding set ups which were just impressive she gave me the weblink to the cage designers…
http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=nl&u=http://www.vankeulenkooien.nl/&ei=UWDjTZ7UHtSwhQff56zrBw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CB8Q7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dwww.vankeulenkooien.nl%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1I7PBEA_en-GB%26prmd%3Divns

She has several pairs of Forpus Passerinus and also their sub species Forpus Passerinus Deliciosus. Leidy had made up 4 pairs and I could choose 2 from them. I also got a single factor misty to go with my double factor hen. (Which I am looking and researching into as a single factor can only go with a double and not a normal and vice versa, these are NOT colour mutations.). She then gave me another cock bird. Which I was honestly really didn’t expect and really appreciated!, This put my numbers upto 1 pair of Mistys and a cock, 5 pairs of Forpus Passerinus Deliciosus.
I plan to go over in September for my hen double factor misty.
*Since deciding to write this I sadly lost a cock Forpus Passerinus Delicosus, Sadly my husband forgot to put their food and water back in the cage, we were both devastated and he feels terrible. Silly mistakes like this happen so often, and its frustrating when it happens. But mistakes happen, and I will never give up on my birds over a silly mistake.
I would also like to talk about Diet.
Leidy also gives a very good diet and uses a good mix of seed, which I now use which is the following:-
Canary seed, mixed millet, Niger seed, oats, hemp, flax seed, wheat, buckwheat, hemp. She also adds onion seed, grass seed, radish seed, spinach seed and carrot seed (which I will do as soon as I find a good source) I also add part Parakeet mix which I was originally using.
Since going there I have learnt a lot more about diet, as this is vital to the bird’s heath, wellbeing and breeding. I have always given a good diet of pulses, fruit and veg. Adding Egg food, breedmax and wheat germ occasionally. I think with the new seed diet I have almost perfected it.
Please checkout her website......>>>>> http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=nl&u=http://www.vanelk-forpussen.nl/53355527&ei=2HTWTYemB4bDhAeY19GwBg&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBsQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dwww.vanelk-forpussen.bl%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1I7PBEA_en-GB%26prmd%3Divns
I was at a Lorikeet meeting yesterday and met Rosemary Low (she is VERY nice) and she knows Mrs. Van Elk too!
Hayley 13.06.11


Bird information

Mountains
My mountain parakeets Mork and Mindy are coming along great. The pair of them had a really bad moult last moth but now they look great Mork has got a lot more yellow on him and is looking good.
As me and bakewell have noticed it looks like the male have red around the nostrils it loos like they are bleeding sometimes but Mindy doesn’t have it.
I am going to try and breed them after I come back from my hols; we are going to put the camera box up for them once Paul has put a divider in it.


Parrotlets
Apple and April have now gone to new homes and I also have let Tico go as well little basil has gone to my mums she liked him.
So now the parrotlets I have left are Smurf and Scooby, Scooby doo and sugar and dinky.
I am going to try and breed them later in the year.

Lovebirds
I am hoping to get a pair of Fischer love birds and a pair of peach pair from the next bird show in November and I am going to breed lovebirds as well




Useful information


For people who want a bird with a large parrot personality without the large parrot, look no further than the diminutive parrotlet. These wonderful birds have all the personality of the large parrots but cannot eat the dinning room table.

Recently, there has been an explosion of parrotlet popularity as pet birds. Being adorable, intelligent, playful and affectionate, the demand for parrotlets as pets is rapidly increasing. Most parrotlets are bundles of energy, spending hours swinging, climbing, playing with toys and interacting with their owners.

The exact life span of a parrotlet is unknown, mainly because they have not been kept in captivity in large numbers until recently. However, it is believed to be around 15 to 20 years of age or more. While they are not immune to avian diseases, if well cared for, parrotlets tend to be relatively disease resistant. If well fed, kept clean, not exposed to other birds and protected from accidents, most parrotlets can live a fairly long life for such a tiny creature.

There are many mispronunciations of the word "parrotlet" but the correct one is "parrot”-“let", in which the middle “t” is pronounced. It is also helpful to remember that it means, "Little parrot".

Different Parrotlet Species

Pacific Parrotlets

the Pacific or Celestial parrotlet (Forpus coelestis) is the most well-known and popular species of parrotlet. They are almost five inches in length and weigh approximately 30 grams. Both males and females are a basic olive green. The males have a cobalt-blue streak of feathers extending from the eye as well as cobalt blue on the rump and wings. Females have an emerald green eye streak. They have dark olive green backs and wings with yellow-green feathers around the face.

Pacific Color Mutations

recently, several color mutations of the Pacific parrotlet have been developed. So far, all but one of the Pacific color mutations have been recessive and only one are known to be sex linked at this time. The following color mutations have been developed in the Pacific parrotlet: albino, dilute (formerly “American yellow”), blue, dilute-blue (formerly “American white"), fallow, lutino, cinnamon (both recessive and sex-linked), blue-fallow, pied (both dominant and recessive), pastel (formerly “European yellow”), grey-green, grey and silver.

Green Rump Parrotlets

Another common species, Green Rump parrotlets (Forpus passerinus) are also the smallest weighing an average of 22 grams and are less than four and one-half inches in length. Green Rumps have a delicate, streamlined body with a small beak in proportion to their heads. Predominantly apple green, the females have a small patch of bright yellow feathers between their eyes above their nostrils. The males have bright, cobalt blue on their primary wing feathers while the secondaries are turquoise.

Spectacle Parrotlets

Spectacled parrotlets (Forpus conspicillatus) are at the smaller end of the scale weighing approximately 25 grams and less than five inches in length. The males are a deep, rich evergreen with a bright blue eye ring, cobalt rump, primary and secondary coverts, secondaries and under wing coverts, bright violet blue on the primaries and rump. Females are not as dark green as the males and also have an eye ring; however, it is emerald not blue.

Rare Species of Parrotlets

There are also several species of parrotlets that are rare to almost non-existent in the United States that are not usually available as pets. These include Blue Wings, Mexicans, Yellow Face and Sclater’s parrotlets.

Mexican Parrotlets

No other species is found as far north as Mexican parrotlets, Forpus cyanopygius. Native to northwestern Mexico, they are one of the larger species at five and one-half inches and weighing almost 40 grams. The males have bright turquoise rumps, primary and secondary wing coverts.

Blue Wing Parrotlets

Often confused with Mexican parrotlets, Blue Wings (Forpus xanthopterygius) are not as heavy and stocky as their northern cousins, weighing approximately 35 grams. Blue Wings are darker green and have very large eyes. Additionally, the males have dark violet blue rumps and wings instead of bright turquoise and females have more yellow around their face.

Yellow Face Parrotlets

One of the rarest and the largest species is the Yellow Face parrotlet (Forpus xanthops) weighing 50 grams and almost six inches in length. They are found only in one extremely remote valley in northwestern Peru. The males have deep violet blue primaries and secondaries similar to male Pacific’s including the blue eye streak. Females also have blue rumps, which are lighter than the males. As the name implies, both males and females have bright yellow faces. They also have beaks with a dark stripe running down the front of the upper mandible.

Sclater’s Parrotlets

The Sclater's (Forpus sclateri) is approximately five inches in length. The males' lower back and rump are deep violet blue that is darker than in any other species. The primary and secondary-coverts, secondaries and under wing-coverts are also blue violet. The upper mandible is gray and the lower is horn colored.

Basic Parrotlet Care

Hand-fed parrotlets make wonderful pets and quickly become members of the family. Being highly intelligent they often can be taught to do tricks and can learn to talk. Parrotlets kept as single birds make the best pets. This is because one parrotlet often become dominant over the other and may become possessive and jealous and even pick on the other parrotlet. “Share” does not seem to be a word in the parrotlet vocabulary.

Intelligent and fearless, these curious little parrots can get into a lot of trouble if they are not supervised when out of their cage. Parrotlets are also very territorial and can attack other animals, especially other birds, even those much larger than themselves, if given the opportunity. While this does not mean they need to be the only pet in the household, they should be physically separated from other birds and pets for their own safety. They must also be trained from an early age to not follow their owners around or have free rein of the house. Unfortunately, most parrotlets meet their demise by preventable accidents. Always keep a pet parrotlets wings clipped for its own safety and always supervise it when it is out of its cage.

Although parrotlets are small, they are very active and intelligent so they need room and a lot of toys with which to play. A single parrotlet should have a cage at least 18" by 18". Of course, a larger cage is fine unless it is so big the parrotlet gets lost in it. Bar spacing should be no larger than 1/2" or 5/8" wide to insure that a head cannot get caught. The cage should have feed doors that allow for easy access to all dishes as well as provide a door big enough to stick in a hand. Cages should have pull out trays with grates to keep the parrotlet off of the bottom. Open food dishes should be used as many parrotlets will not stick their heads into a dish with a hood and can starve. Food and water should be placed so droppings cannot soil them.

Natural wood perches made from manzanita or eucalyptus should be used so the parrotlet may choose a comfortable spot and this will also help exercise their feet. Perches made from cement or sand are also available which help keep nails worn down. If using one of these perches, only provide one in a high spot in the cage as their feet can become irritated if it is the only place in which to perch. Never use sandpaper covers on perches as they do not wear down nails and can cut the bottoms of the parrotlets feet. The parrotlets cage should be kept out of drafts and direct sunlight. A quiet corner in a busy room is a good place. It is also a good idea to keep the cage covered at night to ensure sound sleep and help control daylight hours. Parrotlets should have at least 12 hours of darkness per night.

Pet parrotlets are usually bundles of energy, spending hours swinging, climbing and playing with lots of toys that their cage should accommodate. Ropes, ladders, leather chew toys, bells, beads and rings are particular favorites. However, parrotlets have very strong beaks for their tiny size so it is important to be safe, strong toys. Buy toys designed for cockatiels and Conures not budgies or finches. Continually check toys and perches for wear and make sure there are no sharp edges or areas to enclose a beak or toe.

Being extremely active birds, parrotlets require a great deal of high-quality fuel. Gram for gram, they eat more than a macaw. Parrotlets will eat more than a cockatiel or even a small Conure so always provide a large amount of food as well as a wide variety. A fresh high, quality seed or pellet diet is necessary. Diets designed for cockatiels or other small hook bills are perfect for parrotlets. If providing a seed diet, it is good to provide limited amounts of sunflower and hemp seed. Parrotlets, fortunately, are not prone to obesity and other dietary problems thought to be caused by too much fat in the diet. This is probably due to their hummingbird-like metabolisms and their high-energy playfulness.

Whether fed seeds or pellets, parrotlets still require fresh fruits, vegetables and greens daily. Parrotlets thrive on a basic diet of fresh fruits, vegetables, greens, sprouted seed, Petamine™, whole wheat bread, cooked rice, pasta, potatoes and dried beans. Fresh water, mineral block and cuttlebone should be available at all times. Many grains and protein foods also make healthy treats for pet parrotlets. Only feed top-quality, fresh, unspoiled foods. The best rule of thumb is if it's not fit for a person, its not fit for a parrotlet."

Forum info

There are no real changes to the forum in June; we have had quite a lot of new members.
Any new ideas for the forum please pm me or any member of the staff,

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bakewell
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Great info x
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July monthly news letter
Parrotlet newsletter for July


Hi this is the news letter for July 2011

I would like to welcome new member for the month
Kay
Mandalin
Raiisi
Simonb
Ann
Ahawashin
Xuzh46
Pepe
Vickyjjane
Doyuaft
Tinytoez
Dodger
A big welcome to you all

Member of the month (June)

We are not doing member of the month anymore after June it will be a member of the month every 3 months so next member of the month will be in September

Competitions

The spring and summer competition is now open until the end August for all bird pictures, I will be putting the voting up very soon

Member’s information

Jan has had a eventful month with Mint been poorly and Drummer, here is her story

July 20th awake to find Mint my green parrot let ill. She was all fluffed up and kept falling asleep...
so I took her to the avian vet. I didn’t know what was wrong with her.
The avian vet gave me the choice of blood tests and x-rays or antibiotics I Chose antibiotics because it seemed less dangerous of the two for such a little bird.
I fed her every 3 hours with Baby bird formula for over a week.
She had powder as a pick me up added to water... I syringed this into her beak a drop at a time every 2 hours...
After a week she picked up a little... started eating seed ECT...
Also I spent hours with her cuddled up in a towel just talking and petting her.
She is well on the way to recovering now. But she is like a young bird and she is so small.
In-between all this Drummer had very bad feet... he has like corns all over the base
of his feet. He was so unwell he sat fluffed up with one foot held up all the time.
The avian vet has been no help to him just cost me pounds and pounds...
He was in a cage on his own for 2 weeks... I didn't want him next to Zippi in case
he caught something...now Zippi is healthy...
In desperation I spent all one day on the internet... I found a firm who make White bark
salve... so I spent £6...it has nothing added only the bark and beeswax. I’ve been putting this
on his feet for a week, and they are looking much better... he is now back in the cage with
Zippi... I am going to keep using this every night on his feet in the hope it will work.. He is
nearly back to his old self.

Bakewells update on her birds

I am pleased to announce that in July it was officially my first time I had bred Green rumps (and their sub species too fopus passerinus deliciosus!) I have had one baby with one pair (starting to feather up nicely) and 2-3 with another pair. Hopefully will be able to make up an unrelated pair with these! Jelly (celestial) is on eggs, Nessa (spectacled) is on eggs and Vodka (new green rumped) is on eggs. All due to hatch end of the month. And after a long break with their unsuccessful clutch Cinnamon is back in the box (only put box back up a few days ago). I have also noticed out of the 4 pairs of green rumps that have laid one pair bred and reared on the first time, one pair went down again (didn’t even have the chance to remove their box!) and hatched 2-3 second time, the other two pairs were unsuccessful and out of those two unsuccessful pairs one have gone back down. It appears to me that possibly the first clutch isn’t always successful.
Recently I had a 'problem' with my prolific pair of mountains. I lost the first two cocks as they were coming out the box (fledging) but the hens fledged fine a few days later. I was then nervous for the final fledging cock and was in two minds to remove him and finish off rearing myself! I am glad I didn’t he is now happy and healthy with his two sisters in their flight cage.
The aviary has been quiet (apart from the finches of course!!) the pair of plumheads haven’t let anyone go in the boxes. They are mid moult so they have the attitude of 'if we can’t breed... you can’t breed!!!!' little buggers! The hen was going through a 'bully' stage which has thankfully past but we are going to have to figure out what to do for next season as it’s disrupted the aviary this season. (Just wish we had more garden space!!!!)

Anita (bigboy)
Sadly Anita's parrotlet Bigboy passed away on the 4 july , he was a very well loved and cared for parrotlet by Anita, we all loved him on the forum. We will all miss him, we thought a lot about him.
RIP Bigboy we will never forget you

here is my favorite picture of BIgboy
Posted Image
Bird information

My flock

Mountains
My mountain, I put the nest box up for them but as Bakewell explained to me some mountains are divers and I think Mork and Mindy are they just sat in the nest box and never came out so for now I have took the nest box down for them and I will try again later

Parrotlets

Smurf is sat on 5 eggs now and sugar on a couple, Dinky is paired with sugar as sugar attacked Scooby doo and badly injured his toe so I had to separate them, I am hoping to get Scooby doo a new girlfriend at the next bird show.

Lovebirds
I am hoping to get a pair of Fischer love birds and a pair of peach pair from the next bird show in November and I am going to breed lovebirds as well

Conures
Kermit my ggc is going through a really bad moult he has lost nearly all his tail feathers but one, they are growing back now he is not very happy, he has been really nippy just lately bless him



Useful information

Signs to Look For That Your Bird Is Sick

Signs of illness in birds as characterized by changes in general appearance or stance:
•Huddled
•Sitting low on the perch
•Sitting on the bottom of the cage
•Hanging onto the side of the cage with his beak instead of sitting on a perch
•Head tucked under wing and standing on two feet, during the day for long periods of time.
•Ruffled feathers (consistently)
•Weakness
•Losing balance, teetering, or falling off of perch
•Lumps or swelling of any portion of the body
•Picking at his feathers or body
•Trembling
•Not preening
•Harassed by other birds, other birds will tend to chase away or pick on sick birds
•Eyes dull, sunken, or abnormal color
•Walking in circles
•Unusual smell to bird or droppings
•Drooped or elevated wing(s)
If you’re Bird are showing any of these symptoms don't wait.... Get your bird to a vet immediately.

Other Signs or Symptoms to Look For
•Inactivity
•Decreased or changes in vocalizations or singing
•Drooping wings
•Collapse
•Seizures
•Increased sleeping or eyes closed
•Poor response to stimuli
•Changes in personality, e.g., more submissive, more aggressive
•Displaying juvenile behavior, e.g., begging for food
Change in droppings
•Change in color of the urates (the normally white portion of the droppings), urine (the normally clear portion), or feces (normal varies with species)
•Change in consistency: watery (increased urine), loose feces (diarrhea), hard feces (constipation) indicating illness
•Bloody droppings
•Undigested food in feces
•Decrease in number or size of droppings
•Increase in urates
•Vomiting or regurgitation
Changes in Breathing
•Difficulty breathing
•Breathing with an open beak
•Tail bobbing when taking a breath
•Sneezing
•Discharge or crusts around the nares
•Wheezing or clicking sounds
•Exercise intolerance (heavy breathing after exercise, or inability to exercise)
•Change in sound of voice
Forum info

The forum has been quite busy in the last month with quite a few new member and the total posts upto now is 78,280 which is excellent for a small forum thankyou to all member for your contributions


Edited by scooby, Aug 11 2011, 02:44 PM.
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bakewell
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Great info! Jan I'm so glad your babies are improving x
Jackie, just a though if you want to breed lovies go for nyasas. They are more expensive and we can swap babies in the future :-)
or go for ones easliey sexed, abbys, maddies! I know of some breeders your way who breed them!
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scooby
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thanks bakewell, i might do that, i will see what paul thinks it was him who wanted lovies he likes the lovies with the red beaks, personally i like the masked ones and the blue fischer like gizmo, might have to get a couple of pairs LOL
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Jan
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Very informative news letter..
Thanks Jackie for your hard work..
Hayley I dont know where you
find the time for everything... 2.gif
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bakewell
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My faves are the Nyasa and abbys! But they are about £80-£100 for abbys and we got our Nyasa from colin o hara ( ex parrot society chairman, just recently stepped down) and they were £110. But you can be 100% sure f sex, one is slightly lighter and one is heavier than he other and hens tend to bite harder! But my Hubby is going to try and getanother pair so we can make up un related pairs! ( they look so much like fishers you got to be careful! But they are the same size as a parrotlet!) abbys you can visually sex but their diet is more complex.
Jan my boy loves the cartoons waybaloo, in the night garden, 3rd and bird and raa raa the noisey lion so I put them on when I'm feeding/cleaning or go when he is sleeping!!
Gordon and pancake don't really pay attention to him!!
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Bigboy
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Excellent newsletter. My only complaint is that you did not mention Bigboy's passing on July 4th. I am still so sad about it. I like to see him remembered every chance I can. Thanks a lot.
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scooby
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I have added to the news letter, requested by Bigboy i hope it is ok Anita :) i am sorry i did not mention it before but i know it was a very emotional subject
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Bigboy
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Thank you. Yes that picture made me cry, but It was just so nice to see him there and remember him. I appreciate it. It is still so raw for us.
I just got off the phone with the vet's office regarding some money issues. They needed to reverse the $60 they charged me for the 2 phone calls to the vet on the 4th. It was supposed to be put toward the vet charge during his visit, only that turned out to be his necropsy charge - $440.
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scooby
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Parrotlet newsletter for Aug/sept


Hi this is the news letter for

I would like to welcome new member for the month
Tink
Phlong
Green and blue
Seb
Kiwi fruit
Kepsa
Warlock
Irisdebrito
Marney1234
Egamar
Sambuc1
Melinda
Jlang88
Idaz
Theradiogoddess
Markmind
Say
Alleycat1964
Dan09389
Bop1fc1
Buddie and belle
Amazonshan
Bailey
Marianne

A big welcome to you all

Member of the month

We are not doing member of the month anymore after June it will be a member of the month every 3 months so next member of the month will be in October

Competitions
Dellald won the competition well done lovely picture

Member’s information
Haley (bakewell) is now a new moderator I would like to welcome her to the staff

Kev has not left the forum completely, he still will be visiting regularly but he has decided to hand the running of the forum over to me (Scooby) I am very honoured to be doing this because this forum is a fantastic forum and it has really great members who make it what it is today, thankyou all for your contributions to the forum .
This forum is a friendly and inviting place for people to come and to be made to feel welcome and not criticized, we always try to help with people problems and try to answer there questions.



Bird information

Bakewell
I am pleased to announce that this month my 3 baby forpus passerinus are fully fledged and eating well!
The brothers were being plucked I believe by the parents but they are feathering up really nicely now. Sweet pea was a bit bossy when I first put the boys in with her but now they are all getting along very well~! I have them in the house next to pancake’s cage to monitor them. Wanted to make sure they were eating properly and see which cock bird sweet pea prefers! They all love the swings in there and sweet pea prefers the see-saw swing and doesn’t like sharing!
I also have 4 baby green rumped (Forpus P.Passerinus) 3 cocks and a hen. They have started to come out the box. The other day when the first 2 started to come out I had a dilemma! I got to the shed and we have a wire metal door to let fresh air in n and keep the bird’s safely in if they do escape. And luckily! As I was opening the wire door one of the baby boys squeezed out of a gap between the cage and wire panel front! Almost escaped, so I caught him up put him in the box and noticed only 5 birds!! Another one missing, I honestly felt sick! I thought he may of flew out when I was opening the door so looked all over my garden and couldn’t find him, I was worried so much for him! So I went back in and moved out the seed bins… little blighter was behind one of them! Thank God!!! So gaps been sealed, birds all doing great.
So now all my green rumps and spectacled have boxes down (apart from the 2 pairs that haven’t bred and the pair with the babies). My celestials have boxes up now as Mayazaki is over a year old so hopefully will get some eggs / babies off them. Jasper and jelly’s box is back up so fingers crossed!


Useful information

Food that is toxic to birds
The below is not a complete list. It is recommended that you consult with a vet, if in doubt. Please note that the items marked with an * are especially toxic to birds and can be fatal. Toxic foods are foods that can cause allergies and/or health problems in birds. Anything high in sugar or salt is inappropriate, as are fatty foods. More serious are things such as chocolate, which is toxic to many pets. Caffeinated or alcoholic beverages are also dangerous. I provided additional information as was available.
Acorns
Agave, Maguey, Bayonet, Agavaceae Toxic Principle: Sap from the leaves, Seeds, Calcium oxalate raphides, Acrid volatile oils, Mechanically injurious
Clinical Signs: Oral mucosa irritation, Contact urticaria, Skin: Immediate burning, erythema, urticaria, and edema, Granuloma reaction from punctures by leaves
Alcohol
Almond Plants / Seeds / plant-pan allergen profilin can cause serious reaction in some birds: Generally all plants of the Prunus genus EXCEPT the pulp of the fruit contain amygdalin or related glycosides which are slowly hydrolyzed to hydrocyanic acid. Some allergic reactions to almond nuts have been observed.
Alocasia
Amaryllis:
Clinical Signs: Can cause vomiting, diarrhea, depression, appetite loss, tremors, drooling and abdominal pain
Angel's Trumpet (some species), seeds, leaves
Apple Seeds (small quantities ok)
*Apricot (seeds, wood)
Arrowgrass
*Autumn Crocus
Asparagus Fern - Sprengeri Fern, Lace Fern - Toxic Principle: Non-toxic, Berries, Sapogenins, Foliage
Clinical Signs: Dermatitis, Irritant, Cardiac, sedative, and diuretic effects
Autumn Crocus/Meadow - Saffron
*Avocado (any part of the plant -- including flesh, leaves, seeds, stem, skin)
Azaleas: Can cause weakness, upset stomach, drooling, heart failure, depression and possible coma
Baneberry
Bayonet

Beans: Broad, Castor, Glory, Fava, Horse, Mescal, Navy, Pregator, Scarlet Runner) - Large Beans: such as Anasazi, Black, Fava, Kidney, Lima, Navy, Pinto, and Soy - should never be fed raw. However, thoroughly cooked are safe and healthy.
Beargrass
*Begonia
Bird of Paradise
Bitter Almonds*
Bittersweet
Black-eyed Susan
Black Locust
*Bleeding Heart
Bluebonnet
Bloodrot
Box
Boxwood
Bracken fern
Buckeye
Buckthorn
Burning Bush
Buttercup (Ranunculus)
Caffeine
*Caladium
*Calla Lily
Canada Yew
Candelabra
Cactus

*Castor Beans: Common Name: Castor Bean, Castor, Castor Oil Plant, palma Christi, Wonder Tree, Higuerilla, Steadfast Toxic Principle: Leaves, Seeds, Ricin, Ricinin
Clinical Signs: Decrease blood pressure, Hypothermia, Decrease in blood glucose, Increase in serum hepatic enzymes: AST, ALT, LDH, Increase in BUN, calcium, phosphorous, Upset Stomach, Vomitting, Abdominal Pain, Nausea, Diarrhea, Anorexia, Trembling, Weakness, Sudden Collapse, Seizures, Exercise intolerance, Ataxia, Slight Depression, Copious thick, ropy salivation, Thirsty
Catnip Common Name: Catmint, Catnip Toxic Principle: Volatile oil
Clinical Signs: Odd behavior, Drowsiness, Disorientation
Ceriman
Cherry (seeds, wood)
Chinaberry
*Chinese Sacred or Heavenly Bamboo
Chocolate
*Choke Cherry (unripe berries)
Christmas Rose
Chrysanthemum: Results in vomiting, diarrhea, depression, drooling and appetite loss. Causes allergies in humans as it is a ragweed relative.
Clematis
Coriander
Coriaria
Cornflower
Corydalis
Crocus bulb
Croton (Codiaeum sp.)
Crown of Thorns aka Christ Plant, Christ Thorn, Crown of Thorns Toxic Principle: Miliamines, Terpenes, Diterpenes, Alkaloidal esters of diterpenoid ingenol, Stems: the juice, leaves, and thorns
Clinical Signs: Eye irritation, Vomiting, Skin irritation, Diarrhea, Irritation to gastrointestinal tract
Curry Powder
Cyclamen bulb
Daffodil / Bulbs:
Clinical Signs: Can cause severe gastrointestinal illness, convulsions, seizures, low blood pressure and tremors.
Daphne
Datura
Deadly Nightshade
Death Camas
*Delphinium, larkspur, monkshood
Dicentrea
Dieffenbachia
Dumb Cane aka Dumb Plant, Dumb Cane, Mother-in-law’s Tongue Plant Toxic Principle: Histamine poisoning, All parts: leaves, stems, sap, Proteolytic enzymes, Calcium oxalate crystals, Other toxins
Clinical Signs: Swelling of throat, Impairment of speech, Excessive salivation, Pain and swelling of mouth, Skin rashes
Easter Lily

Eggplant: The leaves of the plant on which the eggplant fruit grows are poisonous, but the fruit itself is said to be safe. Some sources caution of overly ripe or under-ripe eggplant fruit.
Elderberry (unripe berries)
Elephant Ear
English Ivy
Fava Beans
Fig (Ficus)
Euonymus
Evergreen Ferns
Ficus
Fiddle-leaf Philodendron aka Tree Philodendron, Cut-leaf Philodenron Toxic Principle: Nephrotoxic, Entire Plant, Leaves, Oxalates, Calcium oxalate Clinical Signs: Dermatitis, Excessive salivation, Red and swollen oral cavity, Pain, swelling, irritation to throat, Irritation and burning of mouth, lips, and tongue Holly: Commonly found during the Christmas season, can cause intense vomiting, diarrhea and depression.
Flax ?? (Controversial - This may be the case in large quantities - consult with your vet)

Four-o'clocks (Mirabilis)
Foxglove (Digitalis)
*Garlic (safe for birds in SMALL amounts)
Golden Glow
Gopher Purge
Hellebore
Hemlock
Henbane
Honeysuckle
Horsebeans
Horsebrush
Horse Chestnut
Hyacinth bulbs
*Hydrangea
Iris corms
Iris Ivy
*Jack-in-the-pulpit
Japanese Yew
Java Beans
Jessamine
Jerusalem Cherry
*Jimson weed
Jonquil
Jungle Trumpets
Kalanchoe aka Florist’s Kalanchoe, Kalanchoe, Palm Beach Belle Toxic Principle: Isoprene alkaloids, Cardiac glycosides, Cardiac bufadienolides, Bryotoxins, Non-toxic maybe –
Clinical Signs: Labored respiration, Cardio-toxic effects, Excessive salivation, Digestive disturbance, Loss of interest in food and water
*Lantana
Larkspur
Laurel
Lily
Lily-of-the-Valley
Lily Spider
Lobelia (some species), all parts
Locoweed
Lupine species
Malanga
Marigold
*Marijuana or hemp (Cannibus)
*Milkweed
*Mistletoe Berries: A Christmas plant, ingestion can cause significant vomiting and diarrhea, difficulty breathing, collapse, erratic behavior, hallucinations and death.
Mock Orange
Monkshood
*Morning Glory
Mountain Laurel
Mushrooms
Narcissus, daffodil
Nettles
Nectarine (seeds, wood)
Nightshade
*Oak
Oleander aka Rosa Laurel Toxic Principle: Seeds, Vase water, Whole plant, Smoke from burning, Cardioactive glycosides
Clinical Signs: may cause diarrhea, nausea, vomiting, slowing of heart-rate, abdormal heart beat patterns, heart failure and possible death.
*Onions (toxic to birds, small amount ok)
Peace Lilly
*Peach (seeds, wood)
*Pencil cactus plant
Peony
Periwinkle
Peyote Cactus
Philodendron aka Sweetheart Plant, Heart-leaf Philodendron, Parlor Ivy Toxic Principle: Nephrotoxic, Entire Plant, Leaves, Oxalates, Calcium oxalate
Clinical Signs: Dermatitis, Excessive salivation, Red and swollen oral cavity, Pain, swelling, irritation to throat, Irritation and burning of mouth, lips, and tongue
Pimpernel
Plum (seeds, wood)
Poinciana
Poinsettia:
Clinical Signs: Can cause irritation to the mouth and stomach and sometimes vomiting
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Pokeweed
Poppy
Potato (green seed balls, green tubers; plant, leaves and stem)
Precatory beans
Privet
Rhododendron
*Rhubarb: Rhubarb leaves are poisonous but the edible rhubarb stalks are safe.

*Rosary Pea
Rubber Plant
Schefflera aka Umbrella Tree, Starleaf, Australian Umbrella Tree Toxic Principle: Entire Plant, Saponins, Falcarinol, Calcium oxalate, Oxalic acid Clinical Signs: Dermatitis, Vomiting, Leukopenia, Loss of coordination, Irritation of mouth, lips, and tongue
Scotch Broom
*Shamrock (Oxalis sp.)
Skunk Cabbage
Snowdrops
Snow-on-the-Mountain
Spindle Tree, Euonymus (some species), leaves, fruit, bark
Spreading English Yew
Spurge (Euphorbia sp.)
Staggerweed
Starleaf
Star of Bethlehem
Sweet Pea - Lathyrus latifolius - L.: Although no records of toxicity have been found for this plant, the seed of some species in this genus contain a toxic amino acid that can cause a severe disease of the nervous system known as 'lathyrism' if they are eaten in large amounts (although small quantities are said to be nutritious)[65, 76]. Great caution is advised.http://www.pfaf.org
Tansy Mustard
Tobacco
Tomatoes (leaves and stem)
Tuffroot
Tulip: Clinical Symptoms: Can cause intense vomiting, depression, diarrhea, drooling and appetite loss.
Virginia Creeper
Walnut hulls
Water Arum
Weeping Fig
Wild Call Wisteria
Wild Calla
Wisteria
Yellow Calla
*Yew
Yucca aka Spineless Yucca, Soapweed, Spanish Bayonet Toxic Principle: Spines, Furostanols, Leaves, Saponins [steroidal], Spirostanols – sarsasapogenin Clinical Signs: Vomiting, Bloat, Diarrhea, Nausea, Mechanical damage
Zamioculcas - an indoor plant. All parts of the plant are poisonous if ingested.


Forum information


We have nearly reached 80.000 posting this month that is excellent for a small forum
Thankyou to all the members for there postings it makes the forum one of the friendliest and helpful forum around.
A big thankyou guys it is very much appreciated


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